Making a Wooden Plane
Test Run
The quinessential "block" plane |
Fit the iron so that it does not protrude through the mouth. Tap in the wedge, and check the bottom for flatness. If the bottom is not flat, plane or lap it flat. One easy way to do this is to use a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface. I use a medium grit (150-180) sandpaper contact cemented to a piece of thick glass. Planing the sole flat is a great option, but the sandpaper allows really fine adjustment without a lot of work. I avoided this at first, as a matter of principle, but now find it a very useful technique.
Tapping the wedge home can cause the sole of the plane to become slightly concave. If the wood is stiff, and the sides are a reasonable thickness - this probably won't be a problem. Still, I've had it happen to several longer planes, and compensated by reflattening the sole. Wooden planes react to atmospheric changes, and you may need to perform this ritual occasionally. Don't do it more than necessary, because every thousandth you remove from the sole will cause the mouth to open similarly. This was the reason I warned you to be cautious during the initial mouth fitting.
Once you flattened the sole, put the plane on a flat piece of wood, and let the iron rest solidly on it. Use hand pressure to seat the wedge, and check the iron. It should be protruding just a tiny amount. If it's not protruding, strike the front of the plane with a mallet and this will cause the blade to move forward. If it's protruding too much, strike the back of the plane. This will also cause the wedge to loosen, so retap the wedge as necessary. This tapping process may seem foreign, but it will quickly become second nature. It's really a quick, accurate and effective way to adjust the depth of cut.
When you're satisfied with the depth adjustment, try and slip a paper shim in through the mouth. If you're able to do so, you're in business! If not, then the mouth is probably too small. This will allow you to take fine shavings. A wider mouth will allow deeper cuts, and still provide good performance in difficult woods.
If the mouth is too small, gently file it wider. Reset the blade, tap, tap, tap - to adjust, and then tap the wedge home. Clamp a piece of scrap in the bench vise, and make a shaving! You should be making long wide shavings in no time at all. If you're not, it may be discouraging, but don't get upset. Some final adjustments will be necessary. Also, keep in mind that wooden planes take some getting used to, and I find that they improve with age - as the body settles in and the plane is tuned up.
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Steve Spodaryk
Medford, MA
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article
12.10.2008
- Making a Wooden Plane
Introduction
Tools
The Iron
The Chipbreaker
Wood
Marking Out the Blank 1
Marking Out the Blank 2
Forming the Plane Bed
Drilling the Pin Holes
Making the Pin
Test Fit
Glue Up
Post Glue Cleanup
Adjusting the Mouth
Making the Wedge
Test Run
Shaping the Plane Body
Troubleshooting
Advanced Topics
- Making a Wooden Plane
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