Sometimes A Soundboard Just Doesn’t Want To Be Part Of A Guitar Anymore

 

1. Flat Surface

Remove the neck, body and pickguard. A flat stable area is required to allow the laminate trimmer smooth travel around the top perimeter. Cracks should be glued, fractures aligned and secured. Missing pieces of sound¬board can be filled with autobody filler. Sand or scrape fractures and other obstructions. Check that the sides of the body are smooth with no dips, missing areas of finish, nicks, or protrusions. Place a continuous strip of masking tape around the side of the body to protect the finish from the bearing guide.

2. Secure and protected

Photo 3 click to enlarge

Both hands will be required for this procedure necessitating a means of holding the body stationary. A vacuum clamp is optimum but not always practical for many builders/repair shops. John Hall from Blues Creek Guitars manufactures a versatile cradle as a part of the Universal Binding Machine he offers online. (Photo 3)

 

 

 

Photo 4 click to enlarge

I was able to purchase the cradle independently of the binding jig and its adjustable features allow for safe gentle cradling of most common body shapes. (Photo 4) Ideally you’ll want to be able to move 360 degrees around the body so a pedestal mount is advised.

 

 

 

3. Purfling Removal

Photo 5 click to enlarge

Use the area under the fingerboard extension as a test spot for setting router depth and the distance from the edge. A laminate trimmer in a base with an adjustable bearing guide is preferred for its light weight and tight maneuverability. (Photo 5)

 

 

 

 

Photo 6 click to enlarge

Use a 3/32” or 1/8” up-cutting end mill bit. Set the cut depth so it just skims the top of the kerfing or heel block. This depth should coincide with the approximate thickness of the new top. The bearing guide should be set so that .005” of purfling remains with the outer binding strip. (Photo 6)

 

 

 

 

Photo 7 click to enlarge

With the correct adjustments setand locked down tight make a slow, steady pass around the top counterclockwise from the bass side of the heel block to the treble side. Make sure the base is always square to the area being cut. Recheck the routed channel to be sure the kerfing is visible. Adjust the distance further from the edge and make another pass into the top. (Photo 7)

 

 

4. Removing the Top

Photo 8 click to enlarge

Line up a new oversized replacement top over the existing one using the soundhole and center seams as references. Use four 1” square pieces of double stick tape applied near the corners to hold it in place. (Photo 8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo 9 click to enlarge

Set the laminate trimmer depth to equal the thickness of the top. Set the router distance guide so the bit removes the excess wood to about .002” from the inside edge of the binding so the new top will be able to drop in and barely touch the inner wall of the binding. With care rout the excess material from the new soundboard paying attention to grain run-out. (Photo 9) Also watch for the depth of the cut to be sure the binding isn’t disturbed.

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The New England Luthiers is an association of professionals and amateurs brought together by a common love of making stringed instruments